The most expensive restaurants in Paris generally excel at making their customers feel uneasy. Not so at Taillevent, where even relative paupers are treated like royalty —ask the valet to park your moped and he won’t turn a hair. Since the arrival of chef Alain Solivérès the kitchen has been on a roll, turning out flawless dishes such as a superb spelt risotto with frogs’ legs, bone marrow and truffles, and wild duck with Reinette apple and persimmon. Choose the subdued front room for a romantic (or illicit) meal, the livelier and more crowded back room to really feel part of this Paris institution.

Taillevent is foremost known as being one of Paris’ top tables, since the restaurant opened in 1946. But it also opened a wine-store arm in 1987, “Caves Taillevent”, which is now a top address for wine lovers, with about 3000 wines, from the best Burgundies and Bordeaux to the artisan wines of the different french regions. Only some of the wines are on display, but you can browse the catalog, choose a wine and have it brought from the cellar. Maybe more intimidating than the other wine stores on this page because of its upscale clientèle, Taillevent offers not only the top classic wines but a very wide ran.

15 Rue Lamennais, 8th. Tel: (1) 44 95 15 01. Closed Sun and Mon. Average €150.